A country retreat - in Ealing!
I first moved to Ealing in 1984 and discovered Pitzhanger Manor as a local curiosity. Unlike some of my friends, I don’t remember it being used as a lending library as that pre-dated my arrival in the borough. But I do remember visiting the house and gallery lots of times over the years. The Manor rooms were always somewhat shabby though Regency ceilings and hand-painted Chinese wallpapers were still impressive. I didn’t really understand the artistry of Sir John Soane and it was only after visiting his extraordinarily cramped house and collection in Lincoln’s Inn Fields that I realised the connection. I admit to being under-whelmed when plans were announced in 2015 to close the Manor and gallery for major conservation, thanks largely to the support of Heritage Lottery Fund and Arts Council England as well as Ealing Borough Council – how could the council afford something so significant?! But now, having visited the newly re-opened house and gallery just the other week, I have to eat my words - it’s a triumph! The classical symmetry and grandeur of the rooms and staircases, the columns and urns and balustrades and oh, those lovely ceilings and Chinese wallpaper, are all restored to their original brilliance. The story told of Soane’s ambition for a country seat to entertain and impress his friends and clients, is also enlightening. A man of many talents, Soane installed heating, ventilation and indoor plumbing into his beloved “portrait of its creator”. He also enhanced his surrounding park, adding ‘classical’ ruins, a fishing lake and a picturesque bridge. His happiness was not to last however. His dissatisfied wife and fractious sons soon wanted to return to their London home. After only 10 years, in 1810 Soane shifted all his contents back to their city townhouse and the manor was sold. Dear reader, if you haven’t yet visited Pizhanger Manor and lovely surrounding Walpole park, I commend it to you.